Using vibratory or recipro-lap pans!

There are many different variations on what people use to get quality polishes. In the end what matters most is the quality of polish not as much how you get there.

We start with at least a relatively clean cut because if there is a millimeter of deviation then the grinding stages can take much longer. Any more than that then the piece typically ends up being recut.

Generally, starting with material that is of similar hardness just like in tumbling we begin most often with 60 grit. 60 grit usually gets the pieces flat the fastest. We check for flatness with an aluminum scribe to then make sure all scribe marks are removed within 10ish minutes. Once the scribe marks are no longer visible after that time period then the piece is most likely flat and ready to move up.

When moving up stages we always clean the pieces very well making sure to leave no grit from the previous stage.

We then move to 220 grit and do the exact same thing as 60. This typically runs for a day. Then test for flatness and if they are good it's time to move up again.

The next stage is 400 which is the same as 220 grit. It's not a good idea to leave 400 in the pan more than a day or after inactivity due to rust. The rust can cause the grinding/smoothing to not be consistent. As always, checking for flatness and cleaning very good before moving up to 600 grit.

We then move to a pretty typical 600 grit following the same rules as the 400.

After 600 we then move to a polish with a cotton pad. Others may use higher grits before moving to a polish but we get consistent results from this method.

Staying consistent with cleaning, making sure the pieces are flat and fully finished on respective grits are the best ways to get good results.